On a recent visit to california’s Sonoma Valley, I took a side trip to The Barlow, a 12-acre outdoor market in Sebastopol that should be on every epicurean bucket list. Just an hour north of San Francisco in the Russian River Valley, Sebastopol was a center of apple production before grapevines took over, forcing the Barlow family to shutter their cannery and warehouses. The property stood vacant until 2005 when a new development initiative revitalized the site into a creative haven for food, wine, beer, spirits and crafts. Now a showcase of Northern California bounty, the once-dilapidated apple buildings house an industrial chic campus on the equivalent of four city blocks that are foodie heaven.
I was lucky to visit The Barlow on a sunny weekend in mid-February that had enticed everyone outdoors. Buskers were playing for the dog- and family-friendly crowds, strollers and market bags were packed with produce from the Sebastopol farmer’s market, and every outdoor table was filled. I started with a strong cold brew made by local roastery Taylor Lane Organic to prep me for a flight of Golden State Cider, sourced from family apple orchards. I graduated to grapes at Region, a bright and airy wine bar complete with self-serve taps dedicated to Sonoma Family winegrowers and a locally inspired small plates menu.
Sebastopol is the heart of the Russian River Valley AVA (American Viticultural Area) of Sonoma, known for a cool climate and rich soils, home to some of the best Pinot Noir and Chardonnay producers in California, like Kosta Browne, Lynmar, Pax and Merry Edwards. Many of the 30 wine taps at Region featured boutique wineries, like Aperture, Gary Farrell and Three Sticks, that have limited national distribution, making the tasting-size sips a great way to test out small production finds from family-owned growers. I was inspired to join several wine clubs and will enjoy the fruits of The Barlow for years to come.
Some of the most exciting West Coast wine regions lie off the beaten track. If you’ve been to Napa already (or are turned off by the luxury rates) and are a fan of classic varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, consider a trip to Paso Robles. Located on the Central Coast of California, Paso Robles is a three-hour drive from either San Francisco or Los Angeles. Ranching began here with the arrival of the first Spanish adventurers and missionaries; the rolling hills and valleys proved ideal for Andalusian Longhorn cattle and Mission grapes. Today, Paso Robles blends cowboy chic and wine country elegance with upscale hotels, restaurants, boutique shops and some 250 wineries to visit in the area’s ever-expanding region. Like The Barlow, Paso Robles is a relative newcomer that pulses with homegrown energy.
Winemakers often talk about terroir, the characteristic taste and flavor imparted to a wine by the environment in which it is produced. Great wine is an expression of the place it comes from. Many of the best wines also come from idyllic areas known for scenic beauty, with pleasant conditions like warm days, cool nights and gentle breezes. Once considered the “Wild West,” Paso Robles is California’s fastest-growing wine appellation, on the cutting edge of viticultural experimentation and hospitality.
Formally established in 1983, the Paso Robles AVA is a vast terroir spanning 612,000 acres (about three times the size of Napa Valley), with about 40,000 acres planted to grapevine and at least 30 different soils, including rich deposits of calcareous-based soils like those renowned in Bordeaux, France. In the 1960s and ’70s, legendary enologist André Tchelistcheff planted some of the region’s first Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay on the 1,200-acre Hoffman Mountain Ranch about 5 miles west of town in the Adelaida Hills, declaring it a “jewel of ecological elements.” In 1996, winemakers Gary Eberle, Robert Haas and Randall Grahm (known collectively as the Rhône Rangers) tapped into the vast potential of the region with plantings of Mourvèdre, Grenache and Syrah, which are native to the stellar Rhône region of France. And in 2007, pioneers like Georges and Daniel Daou ignited the region as a maker of world-class Bordeaux varieties, revitalizing the original Hoffman Mountain Ranch site in the Adelaida Hills with exceptional Cabernet Sauvignon, a variety that has since surpassed all others in Paso Robles.
Wine and cowboy culture enjoy equal standing in Paso Robles and come with a vigorous infusion of luxury. Allegretto Vineyard Resort opened in 2015, just in time to greet the growing wave of wine tourists. Styled after a Tuscan retreat on 20 acres of vineyards and with Mediterranean-style landscaping that includes a central piazza for wine tasting, the Allegretto is populated with art from the owner’s travels throughout South America, Asia, Europe and beyond. It’s an eclectic but stylish aesthetic that reflects the creativity of the region. Closer to city center, Hotel Cheval has 16 luxe guest rooms designed in a tasteful equestrian theme; The Piccolo offers modern rooms and a rooftop bar with craft cocktails; and the newly renovated Farmhouse Motel is a colorful take on California bungalow style. All are a short walk or bike ride to the many bistros and boutiques in town, but you’ll need a car or a tour guide to truly experience wine country. Reservations are required at popular destinations, like DAOU Vineyard in the Adelaida Hills. The DAOU tasting room boasts one of the most scenic overlooks in California, a beautiful spot to enjoy estate wines and light bites, overflowing with fresh lavender, vines and a restorative breeze.
Like Paso Robles, the Walla Walla region in Washington state is a frontier town. Despite prime conditions for growing grapes, Walla Walla was a late bloomer, as it is situated in relative isolation from Portland and Seattle (about four hours by car). The name means “land of many waters” in the indigenous language, a reference to the rivers of the region that allow farming to thrive in this arid corner of Eastern Washington. Before grapes, wheat was the cash crop, followed by apples, berries and sweet onions. In 1977, Leonetti Cellar became the first winery to plant commercially in Walla Walla. The grandchild of immigrant farmers, Leonetti founder Gary Figgins grew up with his grandparents’ Southern Italian cooking and family-made wines. Figgins gained early headlines for his 1978 Leonetti Cellar Cabernet Sauvignon, a wine that landed the cover of Wine & Spirits as the best Cabernet in the nation. Leonetti has had a long waiting list for its top wines ever since—exactly the kind of encouragement Walla Walla farmers needed to start planting vines.
Unlike Figgins, the other pioneers of Walla Walla wines did not discover wine at their family tables. Winemaker Rick Small grew up on a wheat farm in northwest Walla Walla and developed a passion for wine on a post-grad trip to Europe. In 1981, Small ditched architecture to plant the first acres of Woodward Canyon Chardonnay in the westside town of Lowden. It was a successful career change for Small: In 1992, Wine Spectator named him “Winemaker of the Year,” transforming his unassuming farmhouse winery into a collector’s favorite known for exceptional estate Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. General manager Jordan Small and her brother, Sager, joined their dad in the family business and remember years of hard work and leaning on friends and neighbors, like Leonetti and L’Ecole No. 41, for support through the early years. “We’re really isolated here,” Jordan mused in a V Is for Vino documentary about Walla Walla. “People had to work together. They shared information, equipment and tasted wines together … And it’s still going on today. Every new winery has gotten on board with the collaborative aspect of Walla Walla.” As in Paso Robles, the locals have helped each other get ahead.
Jean and Baker Ferguson launched L’Ecole No. 41 in the former Lowden schoolhouse next door to Woodward Canyon. In 1988, they convinced their daughter, Megan, and her husband, Marty Clubb, to leave high-power jobs in San Francisco to run the winery. Graduates of MIT’s Sloan School of Business with a background in engineering and two small kids in tow, the Clubbs took over the mom-and-pop operation with zero winemaking experience and big dreams. In 1991, Marty Clubb secured 2 acres of Walla Walla Valley Cabernet and Merlot from Pepper Bridge Winery. The result would be L’École Pepper Bridge Apogee, a flagship Bordeaux blend that shows off the region’s lush Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Ever the entrepreneur, he started knocking on European and Asian doors to build a global market and connect with the top critics in London. In 2014, his efforts paid off: L’Ecole won Decanter World Wine Award’s International Trophy for Best in Show–Best Bordeaux Blend, surpassing every wine in the world. Decanter Magazine called it a “coup.” Washington state was officially on the world wine map.
Geographically speaking, Walla Walla is a great place to make wine—and a charming place to visit. The climate is dry and sunny with a long growing season to ripen grapes of many varieties. The oldest soils in Walla Walla date back some 17 million years: ancient lava flows left behind a base layer of basalt that delivers freshness and minerality in the wines. In more recent geological time, a catastrophic Ice Age event known as the Missoula floods slammed the area, leaving alluvial deposits like gravel, sand and silt to add to the complexity. Walla Walla growers were left with an incredible diversity of soils, elevations and micro-climates to plant exceptional Bordeaux and Rhône grape varieties. Reds such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Grenache account for over 90% of plantings, complemented by limited but high-quality white grapes like Semillon, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and Roussanne that prefer cooler areas like the foothills of the Blue Mountains. Wine growers are constantly experimenting with what new varieties to plant—and where to plant them.
Wine travelers get a warm welcome in the city of Walla Walla, the perfect homebase for a wine country stay. It’s a short one-hour flight from Portland or Seattle, and many up-and-coming wineries (nicknamed the “incubators”) are based near the airport in converted hangars. Downtown Walla Walla is home to some 40 tasting rooms, as well as chef-owned restaurants, shopping and boutique hotels. It’s a destination for foodies, cyclists and nature lovers, laid-back and easy to navigate with a great live music scene. The Marcus Whitman Hotel in the city center is a classic choice with comfortable rooms and a James Beard-nominated restaurant. The Finch offers a motel vibe with hip Northwest décor and is within walking distance of the historic Whitman College campus and Pioneer Park. If you’re craving an immersive wine country retreat, the Inn at Abeja (also a woman-owned winery) offers private guest cottages and a gourmet kitchen in the foothills of the majestic Blue Mountains, just a short distance from the tasting rooms of Echolands Winery and Figgins Winery. *
Helen Gregory has been writing about the good life for over 20 years. Fluent in four languages, she has lived in Italy, India, France, Morocco and South America, and derives inspiration from her love of travel and the many people she has met along the way. An accomplished business owner, Helen shares her life with
her husband, Brian, three kids and two dogs.
